[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: (TV) FW: CD-Rs versus CDs /Technical Q

Interesting stuff.  As to my CD-R problem, it was recently suggested to me that the problem was not with discs, but rather with the adhesive on the labels (the thought being that something in the adhesive ate through the top layer of the CD-R).  That makes sense to me, and I have found 3 other people who had the exact same problem as I did (who got their discs from the same source, all with the adhesive labels).  So, at a minimum, don't use adhesive labels on your CD-R's.  I currently use those special CD-R markers they sell to write the setlist and venue on the discs, and as a precaution burn a safety copy where I only write the date of the show on the inner ring (nothing on the top or bottom of the recordable portion of the disc itself.)  I've been using Klone Pro-Gold CD-R's to great success.

-------Original Message-------
From: "Casey, Leo J" <CaseyL@VOLPE.DOT.GOV>
Sent: 02/10/03 03:25 PM
To: tv@obbard.com
Subject: (TV) FW: CD-Rs versus CDs /Technical Q

> -----Original Message-----
From: Philip P. Obbard [mailto:pobbard@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 9:43 AM
To: Casey, Leo J
Subject: RE: CD-Rs versus CDs /Technical Q

Hi Leo,

> What do you know about details or likelihood 
>of life length of CDs versus > CD-rs (say 
>what's the rough average useable audio lifespan of a cd-r?

There's been lots of speculation but fewer hard facts. 
Back in 1989, they were saying that CDs had a 
lifespan of 5-15 years, but all but two of my CDs have
survived fine since then. (The two that have 
"rotted" still play, only they are slowly turning 
a weird gold-hue from the outer rim of the disc in, 
and I notice that at least one of them doesn't read 
cleanly in certain CD-ROM drives). 

> Does keeping cd-rs in not too tight sleeves 
>out of sun, away from magnets or  electric fields 
>in any way prolong the life, or is it just that 
>pressed CDs > "pit" and "recesses" are more pronounced 
>and so "wear-out/down" at a slower
> rate?

I don't know. I know the fundamental difference 
between a commercial CD and a
CDR is that a commercial CD is pressed aluminum 
(or gold for some high-end
CDs), while a CDR is chemically-based. 

You might try browsing this site: http://www.cdrfaq.org/

Steve Rovner recently reported that a huge 
batch of his CD-Rs went bad -
totally unplayable. I've had cheap CD-Rs 
(the brand escapes me, but I'll
double-check when I get home) give me 
trouble after only a year - I wound-up
transferring it to Mitsui Gold and Silver CDs, 
which reputedly have the longest
lifespan of CD-Rs (they claim 100 years, but 
I'll tell you for sure in 2100).

> ps:  I have a 7-8 year old cheap Sony cd player 
>(about $165 in 1995) that
> someone gave me, and I have never had a problem 
>with it not playing a Television/TV cd-r. 
>Is my TV/Television cd-r collection living on borrowed
> time?

Again, hard to say. My sister-in-law's CD player is 
about ten or twelve years
ago, and will ONLY play Mitsui Gold CD-Rs - 
no other kind of CDR is recognized
by it. On the other hand, my recently-departed 
Sony 5CD changer, which I bought
in 1994, worked fine (until it died a 
natural death) with any and all CD-Rs. On
the other hand, my Plextor CD-R Writer 
has trouble with many cheapo CD-Rs.

Even the argument about "the market" doesn't apply -
when you're talking about someone making that 
absurd 3CD Television boot that
came out a few months ago, you're talking about 
a labor of love. Moreover, not
everyone has the free time to burn/copy/transfer 
stuff to CD-R and mail it
around to people, or negotiate trades. At 
least with a 'commercial' bootleg, I
can find out ahead of time what I'm getting.

To post: Mail tv@obbard.com
To unsubscribe: Mail majordomo@obbard.com with message "unsubscribe tv"
To post: Mail tv@obbard.com
To unsubscribe: Mail majordomo@obbard.com with message "unsubscribe tv"